Best in the East... Fingers Ridge

Simon Threading the Needle on Fingers Ridge (IV,5)

With a forecast of rain and high winds coming upward from the South West and high avalanche risks on the Ben, Andy, Mags and I decided east is best and headed over to the Cairngorms.  Conditions there were lean and 'scrapy' on the buttresses although many of the easier gullies looked good. Parties were on Red Gully, Goat-track Gully, in the Trident Gullies and in Brocken Gully.  I think we saw a party in the area of Stirling Bomber.  

Among the crowds walking into Snaechde.

We opted for Fingers Ridge, the 'normal' start proved very difficult as any hoar on the rock was soft and any snow was mere unconsolidated powder, so we opted for the direct start - avoiding the slabby traverse on pitch 1.

Andy led off, and with much delight commented on the solidness of the turf during the first pitch. Simon led the next pitch, which, although harder was much easier to protect. Andy took the third pitch up the groove, Simon and Maggie followed with comments about 'awesome hooks and torques', and Simon led the final pitch, threading the fingers.

Simon at the Fingers.

The day started off fine and bright and we were able to climb at a reasonably quick pace, even though we climbed as a three. Unfortunately the weatherman proved right, and wind speeds increased and brought heavy snow. By the time Simon finished the final pitch conditions on the plateau were pretty wild.  The forecast elevation of the freezing point was evident in the slushy path and as the snow turned to rain as we neared the Ski area and car park. We made it back to the Mountain Cafe for a well earned coffee and bowl of chips!! 

Well done and thanks to Andy Stotesbury and Maggie Bass for a great day!!

A Windy Day on Carn Dearg

, originally uploaded by brockers oc1.

With a weather forecast for high winds and the recent snowfall creating a risk of avalanche we decided to stay low and head into Glen Roy to see the 'Parallel Roads' and went up Carn Dearg.
Conditions were a bit wild at times, especially when we summited! Snow conditions were mixed, there was a lot of fresh powder, which higher up was laying ontop of an icy layer. There's significant cross loading, the high winds should see a lot of drifting.

All I want for Christmas is.... WINTER!!!!

Mag's on the Creag Meagaidh plateau, top of Raeburn's Gully in the background

Well. It's been a while since my last post, however, alot's happened. MIA training.. trips to the Alps.. Lofoten.. more Alps... Scotland..

Back to business. Mags and I are in Scotland consolidating for WML assessment and getting some climbing in. There's been a big thaw since Christmas day, and we with a break in stormy weather we opted to go as high as possible thinking that's where the snow might still remain. We opted for Creag Meagaidh. Things seem pretty sparse after unseasonably high temperatures and oodles of rain. The Posts are all but gone, for now at least, the butresses black. Only the easy grade I and II routes look in.

We opted for Raeburn's Gully.

Mag's Walking into Creag Meagiadh. The Post Face looks Black!!!

Raeburn's Gully was almost complete, and showed signs of recent avalanche and some stone fall. There was a large gap near the top, where the gradient changes sharply, I deemed it impassable and skirted around on the turf and rock to the left. The top of the gully showed signs of the thaw, with a lot of water running down.

Mag's in Raeburn's Gully. .. Yes.. that is the remains of Ritchies route in the background.

The plateau itself was pretty soured and bare of anything but bullet hard snow. A thoroughly enjoyable day where we managed to make the most of the conditions and get some practice on steep ground for our WMLs.