Simon Threading the Needle on Fingers Ridge (IV,5)
With a forecast of rain and high winds coming upward from the South West and high avalanche risks on the Ben, Andy, Mags and I decided east is best and headed over to the Cairngorms. Conditions there were lean and 'scrapy' on the buttresses although many of the easier gullies looked good. Parties were on Red Gully, Goat-track Gully, in the Trident Gullies and in Brocken Gully. I think we saw a party in the area of Stirling Bomber.
Among the crowds walking into Snaechde.
We opted for Fingers Ridge, the 'normal' start proved very difficult as any hoar on the rock was soft and any snow was mere unconsolidated powder, so we opted for the direct start - avoiding the slabby traverse on pitch 1.
Andy led off, and with much delight commented on the solidness of the turf during the first pitch. Simon led the next pitch, which, although harder was much easier to protect. Andy took the third pitch up the groove, Simon and Maggie followed with comments about 'awesome hooks and torques', and Simon led the final pitch, threading the fingers.
Simon at the Fingers.
The day started off fine and bright and we were able to climb at a reasonably quick pace, even though we climbed as a three. Unfortunately the weatherman proved right, and wind speeds increased and brought heavy snow. By the time Simon finished the final pitch conditions on the plateau were pretty wild. The forecast elevation of the freezing point was evident in the slushy path and as the snow turned to rain as we neared the Ski area and car park. We made it back to the Mountain Cafe for a well earned coffee and bowl of chips!!
Well done and thanks to Andy Stotesbury and Maggie Bass for a great day!!
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